Old tailor VS assembly line, customized suit from manpower to science and technology

Text | Li Yipeng

Edit | Shi Yaqiong

The formal dress that originated in the West is the most required type of clothing.

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

The arms are drooping, and the upper body of the suit is just between the second joint of the tiger’s mouth and the thumb. The neckline of the shirt is 2.5cm higher than the jacket. It is required that the error of 1cm-2cm can bring a huge visual gap.

This has made custom suits the only clothing category that has not been overcome by industrialized assembly lines. Artificial version and handmade sewing, a mature “old tailor” can only be made at most a day. The more consumers who are wearing a higher pursuit, the more tendency to choose the body customization.

For a long time, this is a market exclusive to overseas high -end “handmade” brands, and Chinese companies that are better at mass production are rarely entered. “Under the same fabric, the cost of customized suits is several times that of the garment, and it will slow down the efficiency of the production line.” Wu Zhize, chairman of the Bao Xiyu Bird, told 36KR, “For an industrialized company, it is difficult to become a business model. “

Relying on brand cognition, stable quality, and version suitable for Chinese people, Breaking Born in the 1990s was one of the main players in the field of Chinese suits. In 2020, revenue was 3.788 billion yuan. As early as 2001, the newsbird began to provide customized services for consumers. However, the contradiction between the “tailor” customization and the efficiency of the assembly line makes the customized business always the “additional item” with a very small proportion.

Can custom suits use industrialized mass production?

This company with decades of suit production experience wants to try. In 2014, Bao Yizhu officially launched an intelligent manufacturing as a strategic project and opened a series of digital exploration.

After more than two years of technical exploration and production line transformation, in 2016, “one person, one version, thousands of people and thousands of clothes” finally became a reality.

From artificial to human -computer

Turning the fabrics taken from the warehouse into a piece of clothes must be cut, sew, and hundreds of procedures in the three large workshops of the back road.

(Traditional clothing factory, picture source: visual China)

Among them, in addition to a small number of productive machinery such as automatic bed cutting, most of the processes of clothing production need to be completed by hand. Compared with the heavy industry that has already popularized automated machinery, the degree of automation of clothing factories is not high.

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

The high proportion of “handmade” means that the higher the repeatability of a process, the higher the efficiency of workers, and the lower the probability of errors. For example, let one worker sew the same color and model buttons a day, and another worker replaces different colors and models of buttons every minute, and there will be a huge efficiency gap between the two. In order to maximize the production capacity, clothing production has always been more inclined to order in large quantities.

The customization of “one clothing and one version” means that each piece of dress is different in each process. For traditional clothing factories, even if efficiency is not considered, the correct transfer of order information, version size, and process requirements in the circulation of hundreds of processes is almost impossible.

Therefore, when the newspaper was announced in 2014, it was not favored by most colleagues, especially in the suits of the most complicated clothing category in the suit.

Judging from the results, the digital way helps Bao Xingbird to achieve the original plan.

Reporting Xixi Bird Intelligent Factory, interviewees confession

The current production of Baoxi Bird’s suit is no longer a “unicorn”, and the cooperation between machines and workers has become daily.

There is no production plan from the director of the workshop. The order is automatically processed and circulated in ERP, PLM, smart CAD, hanging system, and station management system to guide the production of each station.

For example: The hanger on the intelligent hanging system is automatically allocated and transported to the corresponding process by automatically distributing each piece of cloth. The workers removed the semi -finished products of their own stations and identified the RFID on the coding area. The order requirements, specifications, and styles were displayed on the display in front of them.

After such a digital transformation, the Baoxi Bird Factory can undertake custom orders in a assembly line. Compared with the 15-30 days of delivery on the market on the market, the cycle of industrialized customization is shortened to only 7 days.

The production line did not affect the efficiency due to customization. According to official statistics, the production efficiency of reporting hi birds after digitalization increased by 50%, the product quality pass rate increased to 99%, the material consumption and energy consumption decreased by 10%, and the streamlined personnel were 10%.

Relying on digital intelligent factories, the custom production capacity of Xixi Bird exceeds 1 million pieces per year, and the price is consistent with the garment that is produced in batches.

Software “one minute”

From industrial production to industrialization, it means that the processing units in each link of orders, raw materials, versions, production, production, and manufacturing have refined from “every batch” to “every piece”.

Simplify the clothing production process, drawing: 36KR

The premise of refined production is to build a data chain that matches the production process and can be circulated synchronously, and at the same time overcome at least four problems:

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

Play version of the capacity bottleneck;

Customer demand, body data, and version size communication loss between various departments;

“Fragmentation”

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

Synchronization of order information and goods on the production line;

The newsbird team solved the first three problems in pure software.

Wu Zhize told 36kr that the core link “version of the version” determines the degree of fit behind the upper body of a suit, but also the main reason for restricting customization capacity.

As a very dependent technology, the moderator needs all year round learning practice to find the best solution to satisfy different body and posture. Like high -end intellectual activities such as Go, the version of the version is considered to be a work that cannot be replaced by machines. However, the single-day production capacity of the version is only 3-6, which is expensive and very scarce.

To achieve “one person and one version”, the efficiency of the plate making is the problem that must be solved.

Editions can be restored into a logical relationship. For example: the relationship between the size of the bust and the size of the sleeve ring, the relationship between the length of the clothes and the height of the pocket, the height of the buttons.

At that time, the CAD software of the clothing board mainly came from overseas, and mature and stable but did not have the motivation to optimize. If Chinese software wants to break through, it must have expertise in a vertical field. Bao Xiyu found a domestic CAD developer, which jointly developed and modeling the two sides to allow the machine to learn the logic of the version of the version of the Society.

In order to allow information technology and moderators to “understand” each other, the company has cultivated a group of young, knowledgeable, and specialized moderators, so that they can learn IT knowledge while starting from the most basic version, establishing models, and establishing models. Matching systems with different body sizes.

By 2015, the intelligent CAD system developed in cooperation has been able to automatically make versions with unintentional conditions and passed the inspection of the “old masters”. The process only takes less than one minute, and the average efficiency increases by 120 times, which means that the production capacity of customized suits can be expanded infinitely.

After the production capacity of the version of the version is resolved, the next task of intelligent manufacturing is to make the data a unified standard for all processes.

Prior to this, the special custom order is often the source of argument in the quantity, version of the version, and tailoring. Different professional backgrounds have different conclusions and practices in different departments in the face of the same amount of physical data and customer needs.

Even consumers themselves bring uncertainty themselves. A user from Guangdong once purchased in the cold northern region’s stores, and he constantly complained that his clothes were too hypertrophy. The reasons for after -sales interviews were that the client was thick during the body, and his usually 90%of the dressing environment was above 20 ° C.

To this end, Baoxi Bird has independently developed the MTM personalized order system to refine customer needs into fabrics, styles, size and scenes to ensure the consistency and accuracy of the requirements of the requirements information.

This has become a standard for all departments. It not only eliminates the difference in information, but also becomes data blood for all processes. Based on the SAP and other systems that have been adopted, the team’s team has built a new set of production preparation processes.

Report the digital system process of the bird, the interviewee confessing

Starting from the entry of customer needs, the demand data is sent to the ERP and PLM system automatic production. The warehouse is reserved from “batch” to each piece. Production management has also changed from dependency experience to accurate algorithm dominance.

From the sales of the order to all the information required for the order to the factory, the process that originally needed at least 3-4 days was shortened by the cooperation of multiple systems to one minute.

More importantly, the system splits the production requirements of each order to a single process. The corresponding process charts, effect maps, process specifications, and operating specifications can automatically match.

At this point, digital construction has the possibility of transforming the production line.

The production line of numbers

After the data required for production, the only problem of personalized customization is to let the data and goods be transferred on the pipeline.

Although the small cart is still the mainstream of the clothing factory, in 2014, the construction of the Wuxiabird Intelligent Factory, the information was stored in the hanger, and the hanging system that was transported with the clothing and the intelligent distribution to the corresponding station was not. Fresh, Sweden, Japan and other solutions are available.

However, in the face of the most complicated category of production technology, the hanging hanging at that time was powerless. As many as 385 processes and processes, the processing and merger of more than five main components, not only testing the software’s algorithm logic, but also high requirements for the layout of the production line.

Like the smart CAD, the Rebelling Bird once again chose the more open domestic supplier “Ya Na” to jointly develop a personalized and customized clothing hanging system. “Foreign manufacturers only want to provide standards, which is our logic.” Wu Zhize said, “But the complexity of customized suits and our previous series of self -developed systems require hanging to cooperate with the logic of newsbirds.”

In order to hang up with the production line, a group of experimental groups have been arranged to reward Xixi Bird to give a fixed salary higher than the average level. The optimal solution.

The initial result was a series of logical lines. From the body, sleeves to the collar, each station was completed according to the order to complete their respective tasks, and all processes were transported by hanging system transportation.

At the time of the construction of the second phase, the smart production line can be produced in parallel to different components, which has greatly improved production efficiency.

Through the digitalization of the production link, the “intelligence” of the factory is not only on the production line. The prediction of orders for the system allows the newsbird to determine the amount of raw materials more accurately and reduce the cost of raw material inventory. The downstream connection to the logistics system also allows customized orders to reach consumers faster.

In the future, AI and big data will also be applied to the production line of newsbirds. The data models are used, and comprehensive production capacity, orders, products, production lines and other factors will be used to improve production efficiency through intelligent planning.

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

Behind the faster and higher cost -effective customization, it is the large -scale production and personalization needs of industrialization, and it is implemented at the same time by digitizing.

Output “Customization capacity”

Under the general trend of flexible manufacturing and C2M, 36KR has reported many Internet companies that are vertically perpendicular to clothing. They cut in from a certain link, hoping to improve the entire production chain with a single point efficiency.

36 氪 Organize according to public information

In the early days when the entire industry’s transformation progress, the renovation of the newspapers with a full process of version (design), manufacturing and transaction in the process of the complete process of transaction first verified the feasibility and effect of digitalization of the clothing industry.

First standardize the most dependent version of the version (design) link, and then the implementation path of the transformation of manufacturing and transactions, which also leaves the industry’s experience that can be referenced.

“The intelligent manufacturing of personal customization has established our position in this industry.” Wu Zhize said, “The suit is the highest and most complicated category of craftsmanship, the king of clothes.”

For reports, digital upgrades are not only a investment, but also evolved profitability.

The customized production capacity of smart factories has far exceeded the business needs of reported birds. In 2017, Baoxi Bird set up a smart manufacturing brand “Yunyi Intelligent” to open production capacity to the entire industry. After accessing the platform, merchants can fully hand over the production of suits to smart factories, and they are only responsible for customer quantities and transactions. For accessers, not only the fabric resources of the production capacity and the supplier of the large manufacturer, the production cost has also been greatly reduced.

According to the official number, Yunyi Smart Platform has provided custom production and processing services for more than 2,000 brand vendors, customized stores, and design studios, and the single volume accounts for half of the custom order of smart factories.

“The management maturity and technical capabilities of each factory are different. The digital model of Baoxi Bird may not be copied.” Said Zhao Guohua, director of the Baoxi Bird Intelligent Production Center, “but we can open this ability to the industry.”

老裁缝vs流水线,定制西装从拼人力到拼科技

Digital moat

The digital upgrade of Baoxi began in 2014 is the earliest batch in the clothing and textile industry.

Small and medium -sized clothing factories occupying the vast majority of the market are still in the traditional production model. Production rely on manual, management depends on experience, lack of data accumulation, and informatization stays on “bookkeeping”.

No “remaining grain” may be the reason why most companies are difficult to invest in digitalization. In the past ten years, the net interest rate of listed companies in textiles and clothing is only 5%-10%, and small and medium-sized enterprises with weaker profitability have difficulty to spare no effort to transform production methods.

“The most worried about the clothing factory is the unstable order, and a large amount of investment is upgraded. Once the order is fluctuated, it is the problem of life and death.” Yu Jian, general manager of the Baoxi Bird brand, explained that “the stable single quantity is also the bottom of the rewarding bird dare to make digitalization. “,”

Despite the huge cost, digitalization is still a cost -effective investment.

On the inventory indicators that determine the profitability of clothing enterprises, customization naturally has the characteristics of “zero inventory”. The inventory cost and impairment of inventory caused by the backlog of clothing often occupy most of the gross profit of clothing retail companies.

Reporting bird inventory and inventory weekly change days change

The data shows that with the increase in the proportion of customized business, the number of days of inventory of the newsbirds from the highest time from 465 days to 302 days in 2020, which quickly repaired the profitability of rewarding birds’ decline. Since 2017, the net profit will be turned from-3.81 billion yuan to 25.93 million yuan.

In market competition, the ability of large -scale production customization orders has also brought the competitive advantage of “people without self”.

The “old tailor” model of international high -end brands cannot be produced in large quantities, and high costs allow them to adhere to the pyramid -tip customer base. Even if other garment manufacturers have set up orders, the production capacity and delivery cycle are difficult to meet the demand. The cost advantage of large -scale production, as the right to speak as a large factory to the supply side of the raw material, is a resource that is difficult to obtain by individual tailors.

The greater significance of the Chinese clothing industry that has begun to take off since the beginning of reform and opening up is to make this industry that always rely on manpower and find a new moat.

Different from Europe, America, Japan, and South Korea, which have established a large number of global brands, Chinese companies have not yet accumulated enough brand power to climb to a higher profit in the industrial chain.

However, creating the value of mid -to -high -end brand, which no longer relying on the competitive advantage of the demographic dividend, is the pursuit of Chinese shoe and clothing companies in China. It is also the vision of many entrepreneurs to provide high -end quality products at a inclusive price.

Digitalization gives a possible solution.

Based on the integrated application of a large number of management systems and automated hardware, the income brought by the improvement of production efficiency is higher than the savings of labor costs. In the practice of rewarding birds, the digital transformation of production links may greatly reduce dependence on people while increasing production capacity.

The further application of data may bring the evolution of commercial models. For a long time, inventory has been the most headache for clothing companies, and a large number of unprecedented inventory products have been sold or impaired for low price. It can greatly reduce such “waste” and release greater profit margins by demand and big data -based production.

With the intelligentization of the production line, it is not limited to the customs customization field of suit. Trends such as small single fast and anti -anti -anti -reflection make consumers more inclined to show their personality choices. And this is not simply lowered to reduce the cost of manpower.

Starting from intelligent manufacturing, newspapers have gradually developed mathematicalized management structures, industrial Internet platforms, and digital marketing based on new retail.

From the labor -fighting technology to the technology, the clothing industry may be at the time point of “shift”. The level of digitalization may be the new key to determine who can become a big player.

Scan the code to follow and understand the intelligence of digital digital