● This magazine reporter Yang Jianwei / Wenwen
“How much you said, I bought it today!” In the Good Late Vintage store, a guest shouted and rushed to buy things anxiously. “You just bought an LV package last week, and bought it this week!” The owner Deng Xiaoxiao helplessly persuaded the other party to consume rationally, but he would also lose in front of the special persistent guests.
Good Late Vintage is a medieval shop, hidden in a backyard of Beijing Gulou East Street, and opened the store on January 1 this year. “Will someone really come?” When she first opened the store, Deng Xiaoxiao’s friends would ask her half -jokingly, but she firmly believed that “Middle Ages” would be able to attract fellows.
As early as two years ago, Deng Xiaoxiao opened the same name, and began to sell his hidden bags, clothes, jewelry, etc. But only the online dream can not be satisfied. She began to look for places suitable for opening physical stores. In one year, she ran to Guozijian, Wudao Camp Alley and other places for inspections, and finally set the current site selection.
In addition to the time when the traffic was just open, the stores are now in a profitable state, and sales have been growing. Deng Xiaoxiao was a little surprised and a little happy. She is waiting for the “best era” belongs to the Middle -aged business.
Time brings precipitation and business
What exactly is medieval? Most people understand it as a second -hand. Wang Yuxin heard a saying in high school that some second -hand clothes were cut off from the dead. This statement cannot be tested, and she has never taken seriously. The more professional statement about second -hand clothes is: ancient, this is also part of the Middle Ages. Since I know some of the Middle Ages, she has begun to find that it is different from fast fashion: fast fashion is the copy and paste of the product, and the Middle Ages emphasizes uniqueness. Gradually, Wang Yuxin began to buy Middle clothes and bags, which became her consumption habit.
In a middle -aged shop, the store is full of brand second -hand bags (Figure source network)
Similar to Wang Yuxin, in the Good Late Vintage store, the guests who come to the store know more about Middle -aged, and it will not be a completely unknown “little white”. But for Middle -aged, Deng Xiaoxiao has a stricter definition. This is also a common cognition in the Central Circle: it must have a sense of age, not just simple second -hand products. “(At least) items of 15 or 20 years (time), we will think that it is relatively standard.” Therefore, in Deng Xiaoxiao’s shop, guests cannot see the shadow of modern models, and they are almost almost the same. All the products of the last century.
It is precisely because each of the middle -aged products is very special. It takes time and mind to find them back, and Deng Xiaoxiao will abnormally hope that everyone can buy it rationally. She hopes to buy it because she loves the ancient times and loves this attitude of life.
Four or five years ago, Deng Xiaoxiao went to Berlin, Germany to study, but did not expect to enter the ancient pit. In Europe, the quantity and quality of Middle -aged Stores are considerable. People also love to visit these shops. Buying and buying antiquities has become a popular and universal shopping option. During the Christmas holiday during the study tour, she spent more than 500 yuan in a medium shop in Sweden to buy the first medieval bag by mistake. “At that time, I just wanted to buy a black cowhide bag.” Then, Deng Xiaoxiao continued to travel with him. She advocates the attitude towards European people who are willing to accept medium and ancient products.
After opening the store, Deng Xiaoxiao flew to Japan from time to time to buy goods in the central ancient stores of major cities to learn how to make furnishings in the store. In June this year, she stayed in Fukuoka for five days. In the circle of friends, Deng Xiaoxiao will share the daily vision of the Middle -Election Store, but will not sell the goods live. She wrote in the circle of friends: “Forgive the owner, there is still no way to shoot pictures and be commercially available for sale.” In addition, Deng Xiaoxiao will also browse medieval auction houses and medieval auction sites. Since last year, she began to learn Japanese, so that it was more convenient to go to Japan to purchase.
The love for the Middle Ages made Deng Xiaoxiao regard this as a lifestyle. She often puts her own ancientness on her body. In Deng Xiaoxiao’s body, there is almost no retaining of the tide brand style.
Sister Town in Shanghai is not “tide”. When she saw her, she was carrying the “Little Fang Fang Fat” bag with only medium Chanel, wearing a simple plain short-sleeved T-shirt and long skirt, with a quiet temperament on her body. Sister Town is also a middle -aged shop owner. Every time she goes to new, she always insists on taking a picture. In the large number of her friends circle, they are all elegant skirts with low -key style.
Like Deng Xiaoxiao, Sister Town is also a “willful” medium seller. For guests who habitually “chop their hands”, she will give some suggestions to “wate” their desire to buy. Four or five years ago, as a media person, she opened an online medium -old shop named “VTGHAUTE” after working, and only sold old -fashioned bags, jewelry and other items in the circle of friends.
Zhuang Hanxia and Yan Ting are all kinds of sisters. Almost every time she buys a medieval bag, Zhuang Hanxia’s first medieval bag in her life is to buy from Town Sister. At the beginning, Zhuang Hanxia still minded a little about second -hand items such as Middle -hand. I thought, “I can have to buy a new bag, why do I buy something that others have used”, but soon, Zhuang Hanxia’s desire to buy bags is strong The middle -aged bag is satisfied.
Zhuang Hanxia prefers Celine’s medieval bag. Under the handsomeness of the former designer Phoebe Philo, this brand captured many fashionable hearts with its indifference and simple and elegant style. It follows the dignified and elegant route. It is completely different from the current style. Zhuang Hanxia does not like the Celine of the “Big Women” Fan Er. She is more willing to chop her hands for the previous style of the brand.
The conflict between modern style and retro style also exists in brands outside Celine. Taking LV as an example, in the LV package of the last century, buyers could not see the huge, colorful Monography (old flowers) and large -area metal Logo, which are popular in modern models, and they are more low -key and restrained.
Sometimes, Sister Town will give customers some suggestions for buying bags, and her love for rare skin may also affect the choice of guests. Yan Ting recently bought a red lizard skin Celine, coupled with the old -fashioned bag “It is expensive to meet red”, the price of this bag is nearly tens of thousands.
In addition to her likes, Sister Town will try to sell well -colored medium -aged items to sell. In the middle -aged bags, jewelry and other items she sells, there is almost no flaws, but goodness means higher prices. In the middle and ancient realms, the pricing of items is directly linked to the good or bad. From good to bad: N (brand new), S (unused), A (small use), AB (flawed but not obvious), B (with a sense of normal use), BC (obvious use), C (there are obvious flaws) and D (need to be repaired) 8 levels.
Deng Xiaoxiao was not so strict with the color. In addition to the cost -effectiveness, she prefers the old feeling of Middle Ages, which is “the precipitation brought by time”. As long as the quality of the items does not affect daily use, it is okay to be worse. “More importantly, you can get a certain sense of pleasure in daily use and wear.” There was a LV brown checkerboard cylinder bag that sold only 499 yuan in her store, and the black skin was wrapped. However, there are no obvious flaws in other places and can still be used normally. If it is replaced by a newer one, the market is two or three thousand yuan.
Cheap, do not hit the bag, love the medieval after the 90s
In Good Late Vintage, the post -90s formation of the main force of the tide of medium consumption. This also surprised Deng Xiaoxiao. “From the level of consumption and knowledge, the post -90s, especially those who returned from studying abroad, have already reached a good state of understanding.”
In July of this year, a female high school student and mother came to the store, and they bought four middle -aged bags with a big hand. During the conversation, Deng Xiaoxiao learned that the high school student had a long -term understanding of Middle Ages, and her mother also supported and recognized her consumption behavior of buying Central Ages. Among the customers of Deng Xiaoxiao, several pairs of mother and daughter who came to the store were so “harmonious”.
The scene in the Good Late Vintage store has become a reflection in the ancient heat in recent years. As the image of luxury brand is deeply rooted in people’s hearts, more and more people are chased to buy luxury goods. Last year, the National Bureau of Statistics released data. The per capita consumption expenditure across the country was only 19,853 yuan, but it contributed 32%of the world’s luxury consumption. According to the “China Second -hand Luxury Report” quoted by Huaxia, the total amount of luxury goods that can be circulated in the hands of Chinese people reached 300 billion yuan, but domestic second -hand luxury transactions were less than 1%of the market.
Coupled with the love of clothing designer Kim Kardashian and supermodel Kendall Jenner, such as the love of fashionable wind direction, making fashion information more concerned and dissemination of the Middle Ages.
At the same time, the channels of people’s contact with China have continued to increase: Middle -aged special sales activities of E -commerce and other e -commerce companies, all over the ancient markets of major cities, and Taobao during personal tourism. Nowadays, on Taobao, Xianyu and other e -commerce platforms, a large number of middle -aged sellers can be found in a search. As for the active medium sellers in the circle of friends, they have bloomed everywhere. It is no wonder that the black words of the industry have been seen.
For the post -90s that have been advertised as “unique”, the middle -aged bag can also reduce the hidden dangers of collision. If you carry a new Gucci old flower canvas tiger’s head bag on the street, you may find that the people walking on the face have carried the same bag, and the two looked at each other, “Who is ugly and embarrassed.” Compared with the new model, the number of medium models is small, and some are even almost out of print. Even if buyers want to start, they have to touch their luck. For players, carrying a non -explosive medium bag in Beijing Sanlitun, Shanghai Huanshi Plaza and other places, the chance of hitting the bag is almost 0. This is also one of the reasons for Zhuang Hanxia to be obsessed with the Middle Ages. Until now, Zhuang Hanxia’s most bags came from Celine of the last century. There are basically no new bags in her wardrobe.
Another characteristic and advantage that is easily accepted by the post -90s in the Middle Ages is the price. Four or five years ago, Yan Ting spent less than 5,000 yuan to buy a milk tea -colored Gucci medieval bag. The solid color leather, Founder’s tough appearance also wrote the word “retro”. This bag was also the first luxury bag in her life, and the price was also affordable at the time.
“For me, I really can’t afford a new model (big -name bag).” The 25 -year -old Wang Yuxin is now doing operations in an Internet company in Beijing. In March this year, he only spent more than 2,000 yuan and won a trumpet LV. “Gemini”. At that time, she saw this bag in the circle of friends and was attracted by the design of its bags, plus the relatively friendly price, decisively started.
Walking through the bud, explosion and fakes fly together
In addition to the ancient bags and accessories, ancient times also began to enter people’s vision. On the negative floor of the Sanlitun San and Three Building in Beijing, Tiger and other specialty stores open the door open. Some shops are famous for American sports style in the last century, while some shops mainly sell the ancient business and casual style of suites.
This is also one of the gathering places for Beijing Middle -aged Store. These middle -aged shops can be called “immigrants”. Most of them have been opened for nearly two or three years, and partly is from another gathering place in Beijing in Beijing -Gulou relocated. It has always been the place of Taobao for the middle -aged enthusiasts, gathered in Beijing’s oldest and large -scale mixed shops. From the Drum Tower to Sanlitun, the change of location also shows the trend of more and more popular in the Middle Ages: more and more physical stores, and the number of enthusiasts has been increasing.
Some people even drive the Middle Store to the night market. On July 21 this year, 26 -year -old Liang Jie and her boyfriend Dada rented a ten -square -meter stall at the night market near Jianghan Road, Wuhan, and sold the ancients in Thailand, Hong Kong and other places. A lot of ancient houses. ” The night market is opened from 7 o’clock to 10 o’clock every night. The lights are bright and the flow of people is endless. Most of the booths sell low -cost clothes, and the signboards of “30 yuan two pants” appear from time to time. Liang Jie’s ancient stalls seemed to be incompatible, but they were also very distinctive. Most of the ancient prices sold in her shop were one or two hundred yuan. Compared with the booth next to the booth, there was no price advantage, but she could attract young people who were interested and understood by ancient times. “People who understand are not expensive, he knows the value of this thing.” Liang Jie said.
After trying to sell for a month, Liang Jie rented the stall of the night market. For the newly started shop, the monthly turnover of more than 8,000 yuan is considerable. She and her boyfriend plan to rent a studio near the night market at the end of this year to make the ancient business greater. “The two of us hope to be the leader of Wuhan and promote the medieval culture.” In fact, Wuhan has long -spended culture, and Liang Jie and Dada do more like it has added fire.
Under the campaign, the fashion appearance has also been replaced. Many brands have begun to re -engraving medium models, and the phenomenon of “explosive models” began to appear in the Middle Ages. The prices of the middle -aged bags represented by the LV pirate Montty Public Bag are constantly rising, which is close to the new price.
Explosion also gives birth to fakes. The Middle Ages, which was once regarded as “Pure Land”, is now a flood of fake goods. Searching keywords such as “Middle Ages” on Taobao and Xianyu platforms will show a large number of fake bags under the banner of “retro”, and even some medium sellers have begun to sell fakes.
“Fake goods are not very good, confuse the market.” Sister Town said, “We have seen and touched too many packages. For us, we can tell me a sip of taste (authentic).”
When the explosive models and fakes fly together, the development of domestic and ancients has gone through the budding period. “If it is only (primary) stage, there may be only some people trying to buy, and there will be too many physical stores and online stores. Now many physical stores have been opened, and they are more formal.” Said Yang Lele, a medium seller.
Yang Lele, who has been doing medieval business since 2008, has opened related physical stores, Taobao shops, studios, and has footprints in Guangzhou, Wuhan and other places. In 2017, Yang Lele opened a two -story studio in Wuhan to sell medieval luxury and skin care products bought from Japan. For more than ten years, she has been trying to promote and popularize the concept of Middle Ages. In his opinion, the only disadvantage in the development of the country in China is the identification and after -sales link, which is still a gap with the Japanese Central Store.
Most of Japan’s medieval shops are selling second -hand luxury goods. This is related to the economic bubble of Japan in the 1990s. From 1986 to 1991, Japan ushered in the second economic development after the war. People bought luxury goods crazy to satisfy the expansion of material desires, but they sold it at low prices during the subsequent economic depression, which gradually formed a purchase- – Sale — Appraisal -Another Ancient Industry Chain.
Nowadays, Middle -aged business has begun to take root, germinate, and grow in China. Under the emerging conditions, can Middle -aged business go from the niche to the public?
“Many people refuse to be second -hand, and they still stay in the second -hand goods is greedy, or they are not clean (thought).” Sister Town said that even if the old age has become popular, many of the Middle -aged bags have been recovered. Carving does not mean that it will be able to move from the niche to the public. In her opinion, Middle Ages is a limited resource, just like a mine that is being mining, one day will be used all day, and the second -hand attributes will also screen out a large part of the audience. Among the buyers and sellers interviewed by this magazine, most of the ideas are consistent with the point of view of Machi.
Yang Lele firmly believes that Middle -aged can usher in a larger scale of revival, because of the stars with goods “knowing, accepting, and favorite people will be more and more. On the major online social platforms, there will be pictures of various stars and fashion bloggers using pictures of medieval items such as medieval bags, which brings great exposure to the Middle Ages.
Zhuang Hanxia can also be regarded as a senior Middle -aged bag. After buying more than 20 medium -old bags, she left only a green Celine Box of a lizard skin. She sold all the bags she had bought before, and felt that “too noble lady, not suitable for herself.” Yan Ting also began to pay attention to brand value, and recently fascinated Hermes. When she saw her, she was carrying the elephant gray Hermes “vegetable basket” Picotin. And new buyers are constantly entering the pit. In the past six months, Wang Yuxin has bought five or six medieval bags. She enjoys the fun of Taobao. Together with the medieval business, buyers gradually grew up and finally returned to rationality. Whether it is a buyer or a seller, it is waiting for the best era of medieval business. (Yang Lele is a pseudonym in the text)